Each month Decanter editorial team tastes a lot of wine, but not all of it makes it on to the page. So here’s their in-house pick of “other great wines we’ve tried”. And Panizzi is there! Thanks to Ines Salpico for including us among the “great tastings of the month”
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Panizzi Ageworthy elegance
Even within the context of Italian wine, Vernaccia di San Gimignano is often overlooked. Nestled in red wine-dominated Tuscany and battling commercially fierce white counterparts, the grape and eponymous appellation have been flying under the radar – much to the loss of wine professionals and consumers worldwide. Having long been a fan of the saline freshness and zesty depth which Vernaccia di San Gimignano can deliver, I was given a full immersion by Panizzi’s winemaker Walter Sovran during this year’s Vinitaly wine trade fair in Verona. From its inception, the estate has had Vernaccia as its main focus and specialism, and along the way Sovran has developed an incredible knowledge of the variety and local terroirs. Not surprising, then, that Panizzi counts among the appellation’s best producers, as proven by the many wines I tasted – a fascinating overview, contextualised by Sovran’s experience, spanning 10 vintages and three different labels. While the latest vintage of the entry-level DOCG Vernaccia di San Gimignano (2021, £15.95-£17.95 The Dorset Wine Co, The Solent Cellar, Vin Neuf) offers transparent freshness and very good value, it’s also worth seeking out the Vigna Santa Margherita 2020 (£22-£24 Focus Wines, The Solent Cellar), a more complex single-vineyard expression, or the DWWA 2022 Gold winner Riserva 2017 (£31-£35 Focus Wines, Shelved Wine, Sociovino). Elegant, ageworthy wines from an appellation well worth discovering.
